Road Trip 2009: Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge

My friend was eager to show me the beaches he used to visit years ago that were “pretty much the same way the Spaniards found them” so off we went to Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge near Gulf Shores, Alabama. I had told him that I preferred my beaches with fewer crowds and more natural beauty and he assured me that he knew the perfect place.

We parked at the entrance to the Pine Beach Trail and hiked to the beach. I thought we saw a sign that said 1 mile, but looking at the map on the website I can see that it was actually 2 miles. It was a little more strenuous than I expected so I hadn’t used my asthma inhaler and only had 2 small bottles of water. I was more than a little out of breath, hot and thirsty by the time we reached the ocean. It was worth it. Stretched before us was blue water and white sand as far as my eyes could see, but no people. I think we saw a total of 6 other people on the shore that day.

There are no facilities other than one small vault toilet along the trail.  If you visit bring a hat, some kind of shade, plenty of water, and anything you might want to snack on.  There are more trails to hike and an observation tower.  There is a parking lot closer to the beach, but I'm guessing it won't be quite as secluded in that area.  Click on the Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge link at the bottom of the page for more information.     

I used my inhaler, recovered my breath, stripped down to my bikini, and went straight into the water to cool off. I noticed tiny little shadows in the water. There were dozens of them. “Are those jellyfish?” I asked.

My friend stuck his hands in the water and caught one. I asked if he was crazy and wasn’t it stinging him. Yes, he’s insane. No, it didn’t sting him. Apparently they glow green. I found a video on YouTube taken in Gulf Shores around the same time. Too bad we weren’t there at night to see them shining.

It was getting late, it appeared a storm was on the way, the wind was sending chairs and umbrellas tumbling, and I was getting hungry so we headed back to Florida.  He had brought his puppy with him, so the plan was to find a seafood restaurant close to camp and ask them to box it up to go.  Where could we find a seafood restaurant?  His electrical plug didn’t work so we couldn’t ask TomTom.  I said we should head to the beach and we’d probably find one close to the ocean. 

The beach town closest to our camp was Navarre.  We took a toll bridge (what’s with all the toll roads and bridges in Florida?) and then drove up and down what appeared to be the main road but found no seafood.  “Let’s go to Wal-Mart and ask someone.”  I was thinking we’d go inside and ask one of the employees but he chose a random customer exiting the store.  She didn’t run away screaming, thinking we were trying to abduct her; she actually stopped and chatted for a few minutes.  I think it was Tip, the puppy, that won her over.  She recommended Cocodrie’s, even though she’s not a seafood fan. 

I ordered the seafood pasta:  “Penne pasta tossed with shrimp and crawfish in a spicy cream sauce.”  It was not bad.  I think I’m spoiled because of all the excellent food we have here in the Houston area.  “Not bad” is a pretty good review.  I would eat there again.